she can surf!
It happened again, blogging away with great idea (for me that is) and this time I walk away from the computer and someone shuts down the computer $%^&!
Got down early cuz CT showed me pics of the epic conditions and waves yesterday.... What is that saying? "you should have been here yesterday." I went out in the dark with Bonga and face planted my first wave and an hour later I caught my second wave to go in. Now something is very wrong with that. In between 1 and 2 I check out Rens then Point in hopes of the right hand breaks would catch better but still lumpy, however the Point was the best with thick doubling gnarly peak but too crowded and didn't catch shit.
that's right... was small. worst yet, I brought my smaller green (oldie but goodie) excepting 1-2. I barely caught waves and after 10-15 mins I went in... actually to call in the burrito order but no answers :( I decide to swim out to SO to get my exercise and found out that I'm not a good swimmer and very much not in condition :(
Gusty off shores at SO. My funometer was reading 4 cuz waves seem to slow by the time I got out and 4 cuz I had some fun trying to SUP on R. Rolloff's 10'8 SUP.
Kumu, Lele, and I went Chuns. We went back and forth between Chuns and Pids but Pids had major current pulling toward Chuns... funny but Chuns didn't feel that current. Around 3-4 with surges and lulls too. Chuns west bowl was good with the deep peak not really working. Jackos wasn't the cleanest but still looked good and for sure the biggest of the area along with Holtens. Lanis didn't look all that great. Fun report was a 7.
well I lost my post again :( I hate when I type my thoughts out only to lose'um... sad. in a nut shell waves got better and it was fun!
Not even Thanksgiving and we had Turkey feast two days in a row at work :O Was going to eat the leftovers today but got invited to another dept's deep fried Turkey and I couldn't turn that down.
After everyone was telling me that I missed it cuz Monday was good, I didn't feel like surfing when in the dark it looked nil... so, around 630-ish I notice small kind waves to I rushed in for my 30 minute workout! I was nokori'ing at SO then ventured to rightnext... rightnext was good again and got my vote! Only had papaya, Brian, and other dude.
That's right! I had fun surfing today! stayed in town and klean 1-2. Mostly SO's but only had Mar-ko at Rens so I had to visit him. Rens was really nice with set of 2ft A-framing rights.
Recent Comments
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jonny said:
you tell me? He said it shot out from under his Okole... Good news is he came back to work... read more
on chisai neh! -
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Did you see me almost pearl on my 1st LB wave? Too much board... Thanks for not posting a pic... read more
on IMG_5151